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Images from Style.com

There were some craaaazy lip colors this season on the runway. Henry Holland was the most over-the-top. Among the colors he showed were deep purple lips! I'm not sure what's worse -- purple lips coordinated with a purple outfit or purple lips clashing with a beige one!? All I can say for sure if this is one trend I hope stays on the runway and off the streets!

Would you sport purple lips?  

One of my favorites, Vera Wang, did not disappoint for Spring 2010.  Vera found inspiration in Paul Poiret, the French designer some say was the first to "drape" his designs, a new approach that signaled a departure from rigid tailoring. With this in mind, Lucia Pieroni, Color Creator for Clé de Peau Beauté, created her own new approach, developing a boy-like, simple face for each model, that worked perfectly with the clothing and bold jewelry.

"I wanted the models to appear cool and very natural, so I created a super sheer base on the face with eye accents only, of taupe and silver." Lucia says. "I wanted them to look healthy, but a bit supernatural." Beginning with the new Luminizing Enhancer Base ($42,) Lucia created a luminous complexion and evened out skin tone, prior to applying the Refining Fluid Foundation ($118) to provide an even, flawless and radiant finish on skin. Next, Lucia accented, and extended, the brows utilizing Eyebrow Pencil in #104/Grey ($55) to give a fuller, still polished effect. To brighten eyes, she used new Satin Eye Color in #11/silver ($45,) with a touch of shade #111/taupe to add definition at the outer corners. Additionally, Lucia decided to forego the mascara and eyeliner, but utilize Satin Eye Color #104/golden to highlight the browbone and the top of the cheek to add an ethereal glow. Lastly, lips were colored to understated perfection, complementing the face without drawing attention. Lucia used new Extra Rich Lipstick in T4 ($65,) a nude shade inspired by tea roses.  Buy Cle De Peau here.

HAIR: Bumble and bumble hairstylist Jimmy Paul created three different looks that had one thing in common -- texture and lots of volume. Soft, fuzzy locks were either up in messy French twists, half up and half down or pulled back tight into chignons. The Sixties-inspired dos also had a lot of height. To finish the retro look, Paul used Bumble and bumble Surf Spray as well as the brand's Thickening Spray.

I guess I should toss my bronzers and head for my Japanese rice powder make up if Marc Jacobs is any indication of Spring 2010 make up trends. The theatrical and ghost white faces were fascinating if not a bit frightening. Makeup artist François Nars gave models' faces a pale, almost ghostlike appearance using Nars' sheer matte foundation in Siberia, over which a loose powder (Snow) was applied. Eyes were insanely intense and lined with Black Moon. As if that were not enough, the make up artists drew more black lines across the outer corners of the eyes with a liquid liner pen (Souxie and the Banshees anyone?). It was all topped off with Pandora, a white shimmer-and-black eye shadow duo (Pandora) and blood red lips. "It's very powdery, white, pale -- nothing that looks like makeup," said Nars. "The idea was Gothic, romantic, like ballet dancers coming off stage."  Crazy as it looks, I am kinda digging the return of 80's Goth make up.  If you saw me in 10th grade you'd understand.  All products at Nars Cosmetics. 

 

I have known Bobbi Brown for over a year now but this was my first opportunity to watch her at work.  A dedicated pro like no other make up artist I've watched backstage, Bobbi approves of each face before allowing them on the runway!  I caught a shot of her taking one model out to the actual stage so she can see how the light will look on the finished face-- I've never seen anyone do that, either.  It makes perfect sense though, what you see backstage may not be the case on the runway.  For Spring 2010, Bobbi tells me it's all about the individual woman and not a cookie cutter beauty (yay for self esteem!).  At Rachel Roy, she followed that mantra by enhancing each mode's natural beauty with soft dewy make up.  Try the Honey Glaze long wear eye palette to achieve the look yourself.  It's a duo of long wear cream shadows in shimmering pearl beige and dove grey, complimented with two ink gel eyeliners-- chocolate for day and black topaz for nights (makes it easy to travel with!).  It's $55 and comes with a complimentary travel size Perfectly defined mascara (my friend Melinda and I use this for the gym and it doesn't flake, ever!)  At Bobbibrowncosmetics.com

Photos from Style.com

The makeup look at Narciso Rodriguez was created by Shiseido's Artistic Director Dick Page who kept the models skin clean with hardly any foundation on their faces (Shiseido's S1 Accentuating Color Stick was used on the cheekbones for that slight dewy-feel). Similar to the natural-looking look he created at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Page used nothing more than a touch of lip balm on the lips, keeping the focus on the models eyes. As you can see from the pictures above it's really the rimmed eyes that stand-out. To create the look Page mixed Shiseido's Smoothing Eyeliner Pencil in black with Aquaphor and then applied it, using a brush, to the upper and lower lash lines. What do you think about the look Dick Page created?

Photos from Style.com

Bowl cuts, pale lips and mascara only on half of the models lashes -- oh my! This season Phillip Lim was so taken by Tao Okamoto's signature mushroom-like bob and her "plain face" that he called her his beauty inspiration. Lim had all the models in his show wearing a Okamoto-esque wig (Okamoto was Lim's opening model and the only one without a wig), and muted-mod makeup. NARS's lead makeup artist, Ayako, created the look which involved false lashes placed on the outer half of the bottom lash line. Then matte charcoal shadow was used with a wet eyeliner brush to draw lashes beneath and shimmering pink and gold shadows covered the lids. As for the lips, they were muted with NARS concealer and sheer matte foundation was used on the skin. To give a touch of shimmer to the matte skin, NARS Single Eyeshadow in Bombshell was brushed from the apple of the cheeks up to the temples for shimmer without pigmentation. How do you feel about this Okamoto-inspired look?

I was bummed to miss Bobbi over Fashion Week, I was arriving in NYC as she was taking off for a family vacation in Colorado. When I asked her how she could be gone over Fashion Week she replied "It's President's Day-- holiday family time!". This is why she is my hero! Check out Bobbi in action at the Rachel Roy show last week.

Photos from Style.com

The focus at Zac Posen when it came to the makeup was definitely on the eyes and brows. MAC makeup artist Lucia Pieroni said that he wanted to create a "Tim Burton-esque girl -- very beautiful, but a bit creepy and doll-like." To create that look Pieroni blended Blackbery and Print Eyeshadows into the model's eye creases. Then Print and Carbon Eyeshadows were layered and blended along the lower lash lines then up and around the outer corners of the eyes. Smolder Eye Kohl was drawn along the inner rim of the lower lash line and, lastly, Shell Cream Colour Base and Clear Gloss were blended together and layered over the shadows to ad shine and depth. More about the look after the jump!