When we think fall makeup, deep berry lips and Joan Jett-rimmed eyes tend to come to mind. At Vera Wang‘s Fall 2011 runway show, she put a new spin the autumn face that will rev up your routine without turning it totally upside down.

Smoky lavender makes for a twist on the traditional dark, mysterious eye that’s still neutral and wearable. This is a fresh way of playing with gemstone hues: not bright and jewel-like but a little sooty, a little dirty. Equal parts grungy downtown goddess and classically chic, here’s how to make the runway look all yours:

1) Give your face an impeccable base with Makeup Forever’s HD Invisible Cover Foundation. This look is about pure skin, which lets your eyes be the centerpiece. At Sephora for $40.

2) Start by lightly lining the top and bottom lash lines with Stila Smudge Stick Waterproof Eyeliner in Lionfish, a glimmering deep bronze. A shade like that will bring warmth, not severity to your eyes. At Sephora for $22.

3) Take Laura Mercier’s Satinée Créme Eye Colour in Cocoa Velour, a beautifully blend-able cream shadow, and apply it over your eyelids. Use a shadow brush initially, then blend it with your fingertip (I prefer to use my middle finger for a gentle yet controlled touch) until it is only vaguely visible. This creates a perfectly imperfect base that will give the rest something to stick to. At Nordstrom for $22.

4) Use a brush to start layering the shadow. If you want to go deep and dark, go for NARS’ Eye Shadow Duo in Brousse, a pairing of sable and black violet. For a lighter look, choose Violetta, more feminine shades of smoky lavender and soft metallic violet. The key word is layering – you’re the artist and your lids are the palette. Go for a soft contour or an all-over wash. It is up to you, as long as you keep it undone. At Sephora for $33.

5) Finish it off with a quick swipe of pale pink gloss. Choose a hue that’s almost nude – Yves Saint Laurent’s Gloss Pur in Pure Rose has the right amount of shine – you don’t want another color competing with your eyes or you’ll go from hot to hot mess in no time! At Saks Fifth Avenue for $30.